The overlooked origins of fashion

February, 2022
Sophie Zhang • Marina Yazbek Dias Peres


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Whether it be on the street or on the runway, fashion is everywhere. Many students at PHS are immersed in it, but if you ask them where their favorite styles came from many would not be sure. In honor of Black History Month and celebrating fashion origins, we have gathered some of the most influential fashion styles, comebacks, trends, and accessories that emerged from Black culture and icons like Destiny’s Child and Diana Ross.

Streetwear arose from the hip-hop movement, which emerged in the Bronx during the 1980s as a new style of music and dance, eventually becoming a prominent part of black culture. It was originally created as a response to whiteness being the standard of the “ideal citizen” in the 1950s–60s. Eventually, streetwear became the visual form of hip-hop and rap culture, pushing boundaries that allowed the Black community to express culture and style without conforming to what was “acceptable” at the time. It became even more integrated in the fashion industry with the emergence of luxury, high-end streetwear brands such as Off-White, a Milan-based and Black-owned fashion house founded by the late Virgil Abloh. Streetwear has evolved since its beginnings and has elevated to become a strong influence in fashion.

Y2K is shorthand for “the year 2000,” and it is making a comeback! Staple pieces like lace camisoles, low rise jeans, metallic clothing, baguette bags, and butterfly hair clips were linked to the mid-1990s to early-2000s era, inspiring the Y2K style that began right when the Internet started booming. Many would think that this vogue surfaced with Bratz dolls or “Mean Girls” but in truth, it was Black culture – specifically Black artists – that shaped the aesthetic into the phenomenon it is today. Michael and Janet Jackson wearing shiny and futuristic clothing in their music video “Scream,” Black girl groups like Destiny’s Child sporting vivid tank tops and low-waisted jeans, and rapper Missy Elliott in athleisure are all examples of this.

Velour tracksuits were the new norm in the 2000s with brands like Juicy Couture and Baby Phat being in the spotlight. Like tracksuits, scripted necklaces were also associated with the Y2K era. A notable example is when Carrie Bradshaw wore a nameplate necklace in “Sex in the City,” inspiring people to join the trend. However, this trend truly originated from Black and brown kids, and it was popular within their communities much earlier on. The scripted necklaces were a way for people to express themselves and their identity; a symbol of pride in their culture. Y2K is one of the prominent aesthetics of the past few decades, and it wouldn’t have been possible without Black culture.

Sneakers as we now know them made their first appearance in the 1970s and became a trend around a decade later. Originally, they were made for only playing sports, but that all changed when Michael Jordan launched his Air Jordans line, produced with Nike, in 1985, causing the popularity of sneakers to surge in hip-hop culture. Even now, Jordans are still sought after. These sneakers are featured prominently in the music industry by Black artists in their everyday wear and performances. Sneakers have become so popular because of Black culture to the point that they are spotted globally.

Bucket hats are the perfect versatile and stylish accessory. At first, like trainers, bucket hats were only for practical use. Fishermen used them as protection from rain and soldiers wore them in combat. As the mod subculture of soul-loving hippies known for their love of motorized scooters and fashion rose to prominence in London, the bucket hat took on a more refined and elegant style and quickly spread throughout Great Britain. However, it was the bucket hat’s incorporation into Black culture that made it rise in prominence. Icons like Rihanna, who paired a pink bucket hat with a Dior slip dress, and LL Cool J, who is known for his red Kangol bucket hat, contributed to the beginning of this newfound trend. Now, luxury brands like Dior and Prada sell them in a variety of patterns and textures. Bucket hats may not have been invented by Black culture, but it’s because of Black culture that more and more people are adding bucket hats as an essential piece to their outfits.

Hoop earrings are some of the most common accessories today, but they have been a symbol of Black women’s empowerment since the 1920s. The large and lavish jewelry piece was created in the fourth century in North Africa (around Sudan). Centuries later, Black women in the United States chose to use this piece of their heritage to showcase their beauty. Beginning in the 1920s–60s, hoop earrings were worn by activists for civil rights and Black power. However, later in the 1970s–90s they became associated with music and were showcased on Black disco and soul artists such as Diana Ross and Evelyn “Champagne” King. As different genres became more popular, hoop earrings were later seen on many rap and hip-hop artists. Additionally, hoop earrings have been a symbol of power and feminism pioneered by Black women, especially in the last century. In recent years, they have influenced people of all ethnicities and races.

With their colorful, glossy, and bold designs, pictures of acrylic nails on Pinterest are often the first we save to show our friends. Today, they are considered to be a fashionable statement. However, in the late 20th century, many people considered wearing acrylic nails “cheap” and “trashy.” Over time, they were shown off in the media by influential people like famous runner Florence Griffith Joyner (Flo Jo), who showed off vibrant patriotic colors through acrylic nails at prominent races in the 1980s. With this prominent appearance of acrylic nails in the media, they eventually became more mainstream and popular. From famous celebrities such as Lizzo to people in our day to day lives, acrylics can be seen everywhere. This trend was made possible by Black women who normalized and popularized them.


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